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Hipsters and Hamburgers - Café Charlot

Just as I was writing about the Marais yesterday, I didn't mention the "Haut" Marais. it's the area that falls officially outside Ye Olde Marais but that in recent years has sneaked into the classification (much to the delight of those who have owned homes there since way back then). The last few years have seen an explosion in galleries, independent boutiques and the likelihood of being run down by skinny young graphic designers on scooters. For a slice of life, Melissa Unger has written a great piece for I V Y paris......

Last weekend, rushing from République, in an effort to get to the Marché des Enfants Rouges before the 15 euro orchid plants were sold out, I cut across the Carreau du Temple.

Because I am cheaper than day old bread, this type of bargain incites me to take perilous risks, like running in high heels and venturing down unknown streets. Despite nearly falling twice and being more focused on horticulture than culture 'tout court’, I still managed to notice that there were a whole slew of new art galleries and trendy shops on the criss-cross of streets just north of the rue de Bretagne (rue Charlot, rue de Saintonge, rue de Poitou and all around the Carreau itself.)

Read on.....

Through Bonapart’s sister site, I V Y Paris our clients interested in the Arts and entertainment stay informed of culturally enriching events taking place around the city.

One More Reason to Love Paris: Free Bicycles

With thanks to one of our favourite apartment owners, essayist at large, Mira Kamdar for the following article.......

There are many reasons to fall in love with the City of Light but Paris' progressive mayor Bertrand Delanoë has just added one more: free bicycles. The new program is called "Vélib'" - a neologism from "vélo," bicycle and "libre," free. This from the same man who launched Paris Plage, seasonal sandy "beaches" on the banks of the Seine for Parisians unable to get away to the seashore in summer.

There are bicycle stands all over the city now, even one on my street.

Paris Neighborhoods

There was a time when Rive Droite and Rive Gauche signified more than just the geographical divide of Paris into the right and left bank, but the City of Lights has outgrown many of its stubborn stereotypes. The Right Bank (north of the Seine) was historically the realm of aristocratic mansions and luxury shopping; today its houses artist ateliers and vibrant multicultural communities.

Across the river, upscale fashion boutiques, avant-garde restaurants, and some of the most expensive real estate in Paris have transformed the Left Bank's clichéd image as a scruffy bohemian bastion of students and struggling writers. Today Paris is a city of neighborhoods, each with its own particular atmosphere and style.

When asked where you live in Paris, generally you would reply with an arrondissement number, rather than the actual name of the neighborhood. Essentially, the 20 arrondisements of Paris are the different districts of the city separated by numbers. The 1st arrondisement is located in the the center of the city and the district numbers spiral out in a clockwise pattern, stretching all the way to the north-east side of Paris. Each arrondisement has its own colorful flavor with unique cafes, quiet streets to stroll down, and parks to picnic in.

So if a friend asks you where you live in Paris (and let's just say you live in Le Quartier Latin), you would kindly reply, "I live in the 5th arrondisement... and it's fabulous."

Île de la Cité & Île St-Louis

1er & 4e Arrondissements. As the historic cradle of Paris -- first settled over 2,300 years ago by the Gallic Parisii tribe -- some of the city's oldest "must see" sights are found on the Île de la Cité, including Notre-Dame, the Conciergerie, and Sainte-Chapelle. The small island is also home to Paris's high courts (Palais de Justice), police headquarters, and the Hôtel Dieu hospital, contributing to the already significant bustle of tourists and traffic. It's possible to escape the noisy crowds in the winding medieval streets behind Notre-Dame or under the trees at place Dauphine, but for a decent selection of hotels and restaurants cross the pedestrian bridge to the even tinier Île St-Louis. The art galleries and gift shops along the narrow main street of this exclusive residential enclave have been carefully groomed to appeal to tourists, with prices to match. You'll have to cross the Seine to get to the nearest métro, but this is an excellent place to explore the city's older districts on foot. If you're unsure of what to do for lunch, pick up some baguettes and a bottle of wine and head over to the Seine for a picnic. Don't forget the picnic blanket!

The Marais & Les Halles

1er, 3e & 4e Arrondissements. The Marais is one of those rare Parisian neighborhoods that combines excellent museums, boutiques, dining, and nightlife in a postcard-perfect historic setting. It's also home to the city's largest Jewish and gay communities. This is the place to be, whether it is night or day. The mixed cultures provide a great diversity of food (great falafel to go), nightclubs, art galleries, and cafes to sit in for hours. There is a young feeling in the streets but it mixes well with the history of the neighborhood. Taking to the wider streets leads you to the most popular contemporary, Centre Pompidou, which is in the western direction. And, if you want to shop (because sometimes you can't resist), this is the best area to dig through a pile of vintage clothing.

See Susie in Saint Germain des Prés

A film made by the talented American film maker Ma Shumin. To see more films of Paris neighbourhoods see here.

My faves are my friends painter Robert Hawkins and his dog Flo Flo in Lamarck Caulincourt in the 18th and jewelerry designer Kareen Kjelstrom
in the Bastille, both enthusiastic participânts in I V Y paris.

St-Germain-des-Prés

6e Arrondissement. This cafe-filled neighborhood gets its name from the ancient church of St-Germain-des-Prés, the oldest house of worship in Paris. The narrow streets and historic facades are reminiscent of the Marais, but with more antiques shops and upscale galleries. Luxury boutique hotels in the area offer cozy historic character without sacrificing space or modern comforts (at a price, of course), while budget sleeps can be found around métro Odéon for those who can forgo elevators, air-conditioning, and closet space. There is always plenty to do, whether it's window shopping or book browsing in one of the small libraries. People-watching is best from the café terraces along the noisy boulevard St-Germain, or from the peaceful reclining chairs in the magnificently landscaped Jardin du Luxembourg to the south.

The Louvre, Tuileries & Faubourg St-Honoré

1er, 2e & 8e Arrondissements. Here the grand Louvre museum, formal Jardin des Tuileries, and vast place de la Concorde stretch out majestically between the Seine and the busy rue de Rivoli thoroughfare. Running parallel to the north is the narrow and winding rue St-Honoré, a trendy shopping street that skirts the arcaded boutiques and gardens of the Palais-Royal and the exclusive jewelers of the place Vendôme. Farther west the street turns into the rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, home to many Parisian couture houses. Easy access to several métro lines makes it a convenient base for exploring other neighborhoods.

Invalides & the Tour Eiffel

7e Arrondissement. Home of government ministries, foreign embassies, the Tour Eiffel, and Napoléon's final resting spot at Les Invalides, the 7e arrondissement was designed on a monumental scale that's meant to impress. Though this area quiets down in the after hours, it is a wonderful place for a stroll through empty streets and groomed lawns. Besides the ministry buildings, the neighborhood is residential and calm. The shopping areas around rue Cler, rue du Bac, and the posh Bon Marché department store are good for a day of spending. Fans of late 19th-century art can find bliss at the Musée d'Orsay or the more intimate Musée Rodin.

The Latin Quartier

5e Arrondissement. The Latin Quarter has been the center of French academia since the 13th century, so it's no surprise that the shopping, eating, and entertainment options appeal to a student population. The Fontaine de Saint-Michel is a primary meeting place for first dates and accoustic guitar jams. Stroll along a pleasant border between the calm Seine and the restaurant filled streets. Take a walk towards the Sorbonne and you are sure to find some good shopping. Lounge in the Jardin de Luxembourg, where you can take a breather and sit amongst the statues and Parisians taking a lunch-time snooze.

Visitors can find surviving pockets of medieval Paris and Gallo-Roman ruins, both of which are highlighted at the Musée-National du Moyen-Age, or explore the culinary delights of the open markets at place Maubert or rue Mouffetard. Other attractions include the Panthéon shrine of French luminaries at the top of the hill, and the Institut du Monde Arabe and Jardin des Plantes.